Saturday, November 29, 2008

Gwollu Site Visit / Thanksgiving

Last week I traveled from Kukurantumi (where I have been training) to Gwollu (where I will move December 13th) to visit my site for the first time. It was great! The journey there and back was long (about 18 hours actual travel time each way) so I only got to spend 2.5 days in Gwollu but it was very nice to see where I will be living for 2 years...

My house: It's awesome! It truly is about as good as it gets for Peace Corps housing. I live in a large compound (large building with courtyard) that would usually house a whole family but it is just me there! The compound is also home to an office for my tourism management committee, a large exhibition hall for a soon-to-open (we hope) museum, a visitors' center, and a few other vacant rooms being used for storage. I have a large room (15 by 20 feet) that has a wall dividing my bedroom and living room. I have a couch, 3 chairs, and a table in my living room and a bed and desk and chair in my bedroom. I have power and 2 ceiling fans (my favorite part about the place!). Also in the compound, I have access to a small room that is my kitchen. My kitchen has a place for me to store food, a table, and 2 gas burners to cook on. My bathroom is also really nice... it is down the hall from my rooms and it consists of both a men's and women's bathroom. Each has a flushing toilet and a running water shower (amazing and rare here!). These bathrooms will be available for visitors and tourists as the museum and visitors center opens and more tourists start coming through, but for now I am the only one with a key to the lock so they are just for me. My accommodations are very nice, which is surprising, but comforting considering I am in one of the most remote and poor areas of the country.

The weather: Is awesome! Oh the northern part of Ghana is so much more pleasant than the south. Down where I have been training it has been sooo humid and I sweat (a lot) literally all day and night. It is gross and I just can't stop (no fans in my house). In the north, the weather is very dry. So, although it is actually even hotter temperature-wise during the day in the north it feels much better because when you sweat it actually works and you don't stay wet and gross. Right now (Nov-Feb) is also the dry season and so it will likely not rain much at all.... this makes things very dusty, especially because almost no roads are paved, but I would prefer the dust to the sweat any day! During this time of year the temperature also drops (the locals would tell you it's cold!) to about 70 degrees for the night and early morning while the sun is down... it is great. The dry season is also when you can view the crocodiles at various "sacred crocodile ponds" in Gwollu... I didn't go to visit them yet but I can't wait!

The language: So, I have been doing very well with my language training here and was very excited to practice it in my community. I had been told that Gwollu's version of the Sissali language was a little different than the dialect I was learning, but I was sure it would just be slight differences in pronunciation... I was way off! The language was very different from what I had been learning... even the simple greetings and easy stuff was very different so that became quite frustrating. I spent a lot of time just looking at people very confused when they spoke to me, but that usually just turned into laughter on both ends, which was fine with me for now. When I get to site for good I will find someone and pay him/her to tutor me in the local dialect and Peace Corps will reimburse me for it, so I will be fine. The community did not give me a local name yet (the guy I am replacing was called "Batong") but they said they will have to think about one that is fitting and give me a name when I arrive in mid December.

My counterparts: I have 2 counterparts, Ghanaian colleagues, that I will work closely with during my service and they are great. G.B. will be my counterpart for the work I am doing with the Tourism Management Team in Gwollu. He is in his 70s and has forgone the opportunity to spend his retirement relaxing with the rest of his family in Accra in order to come back to his rural hometown to help develop the community. He is a jovial, funny, very caring man and he is very respected in Gwollu. Also, he wears a fedora (awesome Italian hat) all the time... I told him I love it and I haven't seen anyone else in Ghana with those, he said he got it in Accra and next time he goes he will get me a matching one... can't you just picture the 2 of us riding our bikes around town with fedoras on? Classic. My other counterpart is a young woman named Abbiba and she is the coordinator of the Gwollu office of an NGO called RAAP (Regional Aid Action Programme). RAAP works with a local women's shea butter producing co-op and does a lot of other development projects in Gwollu and the surrounding communities. I should be able to be involved with a lot of different programs through RAAP.

The community: Gwollu just became a District Capital a few years ago and so it is growing a lot. There is a market in the center of town every 6 days where you can buy fabric, clothes, fruit, vegetables, and all sorts of things. In town there are some tailors, provision shops, cold stores, chop bars (roadside fast food), drinking spots (bars), hardware stores, and a chemical store (pharmacy). The population is about 6,000 and the town is broken up into several large areas of land with each being named for the family that originally settled there. Just next to my house, in the center of town, a portion of a slave defense wall has been preserved. There are a few other places in town where you can still see portions of the wall as well. The wall is of important historical value as it is one of very few remaining pieces of evidence of organized resistance to slave trade in the world. Gwollu also has an ancient bone-setting clinic, which I haven't got to check out yet, and a fertility clinic (where I think they make some sort of herbal viagra). Gwollu is also the hometown of the late Hilla Limann, a former President of the Republic of Ghana, and you can see his tomb there.

Thanksgiving: Happy belated Thanksgiving to everyone! We returned from our site visits on Wednesday and the 41 trainees had big plans to cook all day on Thursday for Thanksgiving. Unfortunately, we were told late Wednesday night that 24 of us had to travel to Accra to open bank accounts... we were gone from 6 AM to 5 PM (and not very happy about it) on Thanksgiving day. Those who stayed in Kukurantumi though, were able to cook and so when we returned we were all able to be together for dinner and drinks and it was a fun time. Some people slaughtered (with the help of a Ghanaian farmer) a turkey and fried it in pieces, so we were able to have turkey! Also, one girl's homestay parents run a bakery in town, so they used the facilities to make 60 personal-sized apple pies! They were awesome!

Okay, I think that is enough of an update for now. I hope that everyone had a great Thanksgiving and is gearing up for a great Christmas season. Stay in touch... love and miss you all!

p.s.- sorry for the low quality picture posts... the internet is so slow here that posting anything of quality (or at all) takes forever. I do have to send my laptop home to get the cd drive fixed though (long story, sucks!), so I hope to have my dad post some pictures from home for me next month!

Saturday, November 8, 2008

Ghanaian Culture: Distings, Wildlife

Two out of the three main goals of the Peace Corps deal with the cultural exchange that takes place when volunteering in a foreign country. In addition to learning about the Ghanaian culture and teaching them about American culture, it is important that I share my experiences with people in the U.S. so they can learn more about Ghana. So here is my first attempt at explaining some things that are different/funny/interesting here…

Distings:

"Disting" is a word (not really) that is used a lot by Ghanaians. Most Ghanaians speak English very well in addition to their indigenous language. In fact, English is Ghana’s official language and thus all education in the country is in English. Ghanaians, though, have trouble with some certain sounds in the English language. The "th" sound that is frequent in so many English words is difficult for Ghanaians to pronounce, so it often just becomes a "d" sound. As such, "this" ends up sounding like "dis" and thus "this thing" becomes "disting." In Ghana, disting is used a lot like Americans might use "what-cha-ma-call-it" or something of that nature and it is used a lot here when people can’t remember a word or it is obvious what people are talking about. The frequency of the word and the wide variety of "tings" (i.e.: election, pen, water bottle, shoe) it is used to portray can be quite comical.

Wildlife:

I am in Africa and I suppose people might wonder (as I did) what sort of "wildlife" and animals there are here. Well, where I am currently, there are no zebras, hyenas, lions, tigers, rhinos, hippos, or monkeys. Nope, this whole place is not like a safari.
Most of Ghana (as far as I can see) has much less exciting, but still fun, animals roaming around. On a daily basis I see: dogs, cats, lizards, roosters, chickens, goats, and sheep. I have my language classes in the front of my home-stay house here and every day there are a couple dogs and tons of chickens and lizards just roaming/hanging out/running all around the yard… it is great. The dogs, cats, roosters, chickens, goats, and sheep usually roam free but they belong to somebody and stay close to where they are fed. Some people have dogs and cats as pets here, but not like we do in America. Here, they always stay outside of the house and they are just fed extra scraps of food that are leftover. Dogs are great to have because they bark whenever anyone comes near your house and cats are great because they chase away mice and other varmints. Dogs (and I think cats) are eaten by many people here, so sometimes they are "chopped" and eaten. Goats and sheep are kept for meat and they either roam around town or are tied to trees. Lizards, from tiny to huge in size, are all over the place! Roosters and chickens hang around in the villages near where they are fed and they crow ALL DAY starting at about 4:30 in the morning.

Although I have not seen them yet, Ghana DOES have all sorts of exciting wildlife. There are a few major national parks here and some sanctuaries where you can see all sorts of exciting stuff. Mole national park is I think the biggest and most famous and is in the Northern Region (I think) of the country. My site, Gwollu, has sacred ponds full of crocodiles and nearby there is also a hippopotamus sanctuary. There are also 2 monkey sanctuaries in the country, one in the Volta Region and one in the Brong-Ahafo Region. As I visit these cool places I will have more to share about them, but for now I just wanted to assure you it’s not all just roosters and lizards here.

Field Trip

Sorry for not posting lately. All is well here in Ghana; I just haven’t been to the internet cafÈ too much lately.

Anyway, this week was very eventful and a lot of fun. I went on a field trip through the southern Volta Region with the 12 other Small Enterprise Development trainees. We visited Hohoe, Ho, Leklebi, Tafi-Abuipe, and a few other places.

We left from Kukurantumi on Saturday and on Sunday we hiked to another awesome waterfall and swam in it. Sunday night we went out into the woods to have a bonfire and drink palm wine. A group of about 20 local young guys joined us to play drums and dance around the fire. It was amazing… the drumming and signing was really cool and I both learned and taught some pretty impressive dance moves. My favorite Ghanaian dance move would have to be "the chicken" or "the kangaroo." Their favorite from my teaching: "The Elaine." They also frequently sing a song here about Barack Obama… "Barack Barack, Barack Obaaama"… that is pretty catchy.

On Monday we visited a District Assembly (regional/local government) office and met with some people there to talk about eco-tourism. From there we visited a women’s pottery co-op and a men’s wood carving co-op to learn about their crafts and how co-ops in Ghana are formed. Then we went to Tafi-Abuipe, which is small old village where nearly all of the residents weave kente cloth. Ghana is famous for this type of cloth that is very colorful and is usually found in strips with very elaborate patterns. All over the town women, men, and children were operating these weaving contraptions made out of bamboo and wood with yards upon yards of colorful string in front of them. Monday night we went into the mountains and stayed at a great place called the Mountain Paradise Lodge.

On Tuesday we visited an NGO that helped young women make a living by making beads and other craft products and marketing them internationally. Then, we visited with a nonprofit microfinance firm that helps people save money to expand their businesses and also offers low interest loans to those business owners who can show a track record of saving money over a period of time. Tuesday night we stayed in a nice hotel in Ho. We took advantage of the hotel pool and bar and stayed up until 4 or 5 in the morning to learn of and celebrate Barack Obama’s victory!

We came back to Kukurantumi on Wednesday and now are back, full force, into our pre service training. Today we will have a soccer and volleyball match between the Peace Corps Trainers and Trainees. I will get to visit my site, Gwollu, from November 20-26 and then I will return to Kukurantumi for more training until I move to my site for good (well, 2 years) on Saturday, December 13th.

Cell Phone!

I got a cell phone here finally. If you want the number and don’t have it just drop me an email and I will get it to you. To call me from the U.S. is only 16 cents per minute if you use Skype!